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ERADICAKE Never a dull moment
around here...my last few days have been jammed with an array of both
tedious and wonderful. Starting with the wonderful: afternoon basketball
with the locals, a glorious afternoon spent on the windward side of the
atoll and drifting back toward Swell under a cloudless night sky with
left over spaghetti and a bottle of wine, and teaching my friend Henry's
4-year old daughter, Reaua to swim, snorkel, and paddle a surfboard. In
less than a week she's gone from barely putting her face in the water
to chasing 'fish families' with me in her mini mask and standing on the
nose of my longboard. She's a regular-footer for sure and it's a good
thing because she lives directly in front of a right-hander on Christmas
Island. After four months here in the Line Islands, I am finally feeling
the urge to pack it up --two straight weeks of absolutely NO surf may
be the cause. Despite a lack of waves, there are always other tasks to
occupy me. |
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